You just pointed something out to me that I didn't even think about... you CAN have FoC on the side blades, as that effect will happen after the initial extension! Love that customers think beyond the initial implementation and do more with my product than I thought possible. I'll need to add a wiring diagram for that and explain it so that folks can now make a more informed choice when creating their cross-guard sabers.
Now, as for your second question, I really like to do only 2 per pad, though per the part spec 3 would be okay. In your setup I think you can just have C1 be main two colors, C2 can be the 3 white flash colors, and C3 and C4 can be your side LEDs assuming you are using TriCree RRW for all 3 leds. You'd of course bridge #4 of the board to #3 and #4 of the TruDrive and #3 of the board would be left unconnected.
I'd really recommend against using all 4 quillion reds unless you're resistoring them down - one each is plenty (too much even) for each 4-6" blade.
I tend to stick with single colors hilts for costuming since FoC doesn't show up in pictures and sometimes work well in certain types of video, and I've had great success with a tri-LED main blade at full blast with single-diode exhausts at 50% each. Color is balanced, and I'm only pulling 4-5A, which an 18650 can easily handle.
(Hilt on the right running a Tri-Cree XP-E2 Red main with Single-Cree Red Exhausts, compared to a Black Series Kylo)
Still, the idea should hold up for a FoC system - both reds on main, and one under-powered red for each exhaust. Go ahead and fit a 26650 if you can, but I've never found it necessary.
On the flip side, I've seen a recent hilt where multi-die quillions were pulling waaaay too much power, preventing the main blade from lighting up well, and seriously outshining the main blade. Yeah, that one *might* have benefitted from upgrading the 18650 to a 26650, but why waste the power when it doesn't need to be spent?
Post by megtoothsith on Aug 1, 2017 19:26:37 GMT -5
I have upgraded 2 Hasbro BS sabers. I agree, I only run one led in side emitters, and at a reduced power level. I am running a quad cree main blade, which is why I have the main blade divided up. Main blade will be dR, dR, R, W. Side emitters will only have dR,W wired. Both side emitters to C4. Deep Red Diodes from main to C1, and Red Diode from Main blade to C2. C3 will get all 3 white diodes from side emitters and main blade, but they will only briefly flash.
If I stick to this plan, it allows me to use the color sets to adjust how much red I blend into the deep red. I can shut red completely off. I can shut deep red completely off in main blade, and only run the single red diode. I can likewise adjust the power consumption of the side emitters. Both running Spark 2 here.
Here are my 2 Kylo Sabers in video:
I am now upgrading one of the sabers, the deep red one from the video above to Spark 2 Color with FOC in all blades. I am also building a permanent chassis into the saber, so the lower portion of the saber can slide off so I can change batteries to avoid the wire strain of shuttling out a chassis with wire cram fu. I am also going to be using a 26650 in this saber, and will be both swappable, and in-hilt rechargeable.
My initial Kylo Ren BS Saber Mod can be seen in the last few minutes of this video, in comparison with a stock bs. This was with the side quillions running full, and I have since turned them way down to save on energy, as you have stated.
So, hopefully this new saber will have the blade brightness of my second Kylo Mod, which was brighter than video above, the blending to my satisfaction of DR/R. I will also have flash on clash, and the ability to modify the color sets for power control options for longer endurance. This mod will also fix the saber for more effective battery swaps, and minimizing chances of wire fatigue. I am using 1" ID aluminum pipe to build my chassis from. It will lock into the head of saber, and replace the TCSS conversion kit, using a 1" LED module to hold my main blade cree in the new "chassis" tube. I'll cut out the tube for the 26650 battery holder (lots of cutting), and for my Spark Color 2. Wires will all remain in place in the tube as the outer lower chassis is slid down to expose the replaceable battery, and to access the SD Card on the SC2. Lots of machining of hilt going on to make all this happen. Once this is done, I've really accomplished as much as I can with this Hasbro Junk. If I can make this chassis solution work, my other Kylo is getting same chassis system, 26650, and neopixel. Then, I'm done with Hasbro junk. IF I eve build another Kylo saber, it will be one of the new Korbanth replicas.
I can't think of any Quad-XP-E(2) star that fits into a 1" heatsink, so I'm going to assume you're planning on using a custom 12W+/X4/XQ-E star, at which point you might be wasting power without bumping up brightness much. Those little XQ-Es don't put out near as many lumens per diode, so you might very well be better off sticking with a Tri-Cree main, or at least re-using the TCSS bladeholder and fitting it with a 23mm Quad-Rebel star and lens.
Post by megtoothsith on Aug 1, 2017 21:09:10 GMT -5
I am using a custom X4 that does fit in a 1" heatsink. I'm using the same LED on my MPP in a .875" module. Where are you sourcing the 23mm Quad Rebels from? Do they make a quad lens for it? The X4 can use a single 5 degree lens, similar to the XPE-2. I don't have a meter, but the difference between that X4 and my tricree was noticible. If I just use a plain old tri cree, I can only have one deep red diode, one red diode, and one white diode. One of my initial Kylo sabers with no FOC was running dR,dR,R on a XPE-2. That saber was awesome, and the only problem with its color and brightness was that because I was running a Spark 2, I couldn't blend how much Red was blending into deep red. Which was another reason I wanted Spark2 color, in addition to adding the white diode for FOC.
Last I checked, it was a bit too large to fit in a TCSS 1" heatsink, but I haven't measured any other brand. Should fit fine in a TCSS MHS heatsink or conversion kit though, so long as you widen the blade-side opening to let more light through. There was a thread on here a while back from someone testing a Lime/Lime/RedOrange/CoolWhite LED with good results, if memory serves me properly.
The Quad lens is typically 25mm, but LuxeonStar also sells a modified lens that's been shaved down to 23mm for tight fits.
Post by megtoothsith on Sept 9, 2017 0:35:23 GMT -5
BTW, I'm also trying to figure out the 26650 setup in this saber for plans to take my other Kylo Saber in a Neopixel direction. I don't need the 36650 or this saber, but it will help it last longer. I should get well over an hour run time between battery changes, which will be good for what I use them for. Some of our troops are pretty long, and the 18650s were really not cutting the mustard. Almost ready to assemble, as I finished the rest of the engineering tonight. Had to figure out a way to slope the board so I could get the SD out. Got that figured out tonight, and have T8 worked out to give me another layer of protection between my board and my new aluminum tube chassis. Got the beheamoth 26650 to fit in there as well, and the hilt slides over the whole thing now. No more wire cram fu, bigger battery, and FOC! This saber is going to rock, and is a precursor to my Neopixel Kylo!
Post by megtoothsith on Sept 12, 2017 1:09:50 GMT -5
It worked Scott!
C1: Deep Red (2) Main Blade C2: Red (1) Main Blade C3: White (3) one from main, and one from each quillion C4: Deep Red (2) one from each quillion.
My pipe chassis with 26650 worked out well. You slide off the hilt to change batteries. No more cram fu, the chassis is permanently mounted in the saber head. I also have a recharge port for normal charging. The FOC works well, not I need to adjust the SD to get the flicker and all to my liking, but the function is there and looks great! It can be done.
jaltrooper: Hey guys! Dumb question...but are there any t-shirts available, or any other swag I can buy to support the Page?
Sept 23, 2017 8:52:58 GMT -5
ARKM: We have challenge coins. Contact Luke Skywalker if you want one.
Sept 23, 2017 13:50:47 GMT -5
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Sept 23, 2017 16:23:33 GMT -5
Luke Skywalker: As for shirts. I really need to get one for me as well. I've been wanting one with our new logo since we changed over. My desire has always been that this is a site for the members. I consider you all my friends and have no desire to make a profit from
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ARKM: Luke Skywalker, hit me up if you want the image I used for the front of my shirt.
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Luke Skywalker: My recommendation, and the place I will definitely go when I want to have a shirt done is TRA member defcon. Al's work is outstanding. Al is the Solo's Hold of saber bags and other fabric items. I've had him make me a couple of shirts and several
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Luke Skywalker: saber bags. His merchandise is perfection.
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Sept 23, 2017 16:30:26 GMT -5
Luke Skywalker: ARKM what image did you use? Was it the one with SVD's glowing eyes? I'm really curious to see how our logo looks on a shirt. Defcon would certainly need to use the flattened simpler version. For a detailed logo I think you'd need it silk screened.
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